Dahab and H1N1 Vacation

Where to begin...

So a day before our Eid (End of Ramadan holiday, usually 5 days) break, our school was forced to shut down due to pressure from the Egyptian Government regarding the H1N1 virus. There is concern across the region regarding the flu for various reasons, some of them being the (smaller) Hajj trip to Mecca, the incredible overcrowdedness of Cairo along with horrid living conditions for many, and honestly, the possibility that the government(s) would not be able to handle a large scale outbreak (yes I know, its just the flu!) that could occur. A group of students from my dorm and I had already planned a vacation to Dahab, Egypt. A sleepy town on the Eastern edge of the Sinai, Dahab is known for its student friendly prices and of course, for the amazing Red Sea. I was really excited for this trip for a couple of reasons. Firstly I was getting pretty stressed with school already (sad, I know), and secondly, I can't remember the last time I went to a really nice beach!

So we headed off at 1am on Thursday night/Friday morning (it's a 9 hr drive) and arrived in Dahab around 10:30am. Our hotel was nestled right on the edge of the coral reef, and lets just say that we had an absolutely stunning view from the sea-side restaurant...

Upon arrival we immediately got comfortable at the restaurant (it was Beduin style: cushions on the floor, low tables, and really good food and drink), and kicked back and enjoyed the atmosphere, which I should add, was complete with Bob Marley music! That evening we had a tea session planned with a group of local beduins. We left the hotel in a couple of rickety pickup trucks, and headed to a run-down part of Dahab where the camels were kept and presumably, where the Beduins now live. From there we mounted the camels and headed up into the hills, with mostly little children under 10 guiding our camels. It was definitely a fun experience to ride a camel for the first time, but definitely not the grandeur vision I had of myself imitating Lawrence of Arabia traveling through vast areas of desert with my Beduin guide... no, that came the next day :) Either way, I felt a little like a snooty British-man being led around on a camel by a little Beduin child, but things felt better when upon arrival to the campfire, I was invited by my newly made Beduin friend Ahmed to sit with him on his blanket and drink tea and look at the stars. Here is a shot of me at the top of the hill in my wannabe attire at sunset:

After returning to Dahab, we sampled the local cuisine, which I was very impressed with. There was cheap street food (i.e. Koshary, Falafel, even Hamburgers), and very nice seafood as well (which I steered far clear of :P) I heard from my friends who did eat it though, that it was some of the best they have had in their life!

Next on our plan was a snorkeling expedition to the Blue Hole, a gaping...well...hole that looks blue because of its IMMENSE depths. This thing is so deep that it has claimed lives in the past because scuba divers descend into its depths but eventually lose orientation and run out of oxygen...yikes. I'll just snorkel, thank you very much. At 9 o'clock am we loaded into another pair of run-down jeeps, and headed out to the Blue Hole. We arrived, and were set up in a restaurant that also rented out snorkeling gear. After this we were told that a kid, I'd say of about 10 years old, was our guide, and that we were going to a Beduin village up the coast that was only accessible by camel. "Our little camel driver" as I liked to call him, was pretty awesome, and I finally got to ride my own camel, steer it, and even trot/gallop on it! We also learned out to imitate the sounds that he used to make his camel gallop, and we all had a blast when our camels would simultaneously start trotting along the crystal clear waters of the Red Sea. That brings me to the water... I have to say that whenever I envisioned Egypt, I certainly did not think of blue water, coral reefs and sandy beaches. No, I, like most Westerners, thought of the pyramids, a really big city with 8 million people in it, and of course, CHAOS IN THE MIDDLE EAST (Thank you Mr. Buckley).

Yes, this is in Egypt:

After about an hour camel ride, we arrived at the village which consisted of a series of straw huts on a beautiful beach. It was really something out of a travel magazine, and I tried to catch a couple of shots with my camera that showed this (for more pictures you should definitely check out my facebook, link on the right hand side of this page). Here we found a nice entrance to the reef, and snorkeled to our hearts content. There were all kinds of fish, and while I am no marine biologist, I recognized dragon fish, parrot fish, and numerous other tropical species. Also because the water in the Red Sea is so warm, you don't have to worry about Great White Sharks! Thank God :)

Our last day in Dahab was spend lounging around the beach, which was just what the doctor ordered. I kind of felt like I was in Europe though, because some "bro" pulled up behind us on the beach, opened the doors to his car, and started blasting techno for the whole world to hear... That aside, this beach was so incredible. It was the beginning of a bay that made its way inland, and the water was perfectly clear and rarely had a single wave ripple across its surface.

After lounging in the sun all day, our next plan was to hike up Mt. Sinai, where it is said that Moses received the Ten Commandments. Not being told really anything by our guides or hotel about the severity of the hike, we left the hotel late that night in high spirits and slightly unprepared...

The hike up Mt. Sinai left me with mixed feelings. It has become a place of pilgrimage for peoples of all faiths the world over to come and experience the intensity of the desert, the mountains, and holy energy. The hike also includes a visit to St. Catherine's Monestary, where what is believed to be the Burning Bush still grows, so this also adds to the sanctity of the trip. We began our hike around 2am in the pitch black mountain path with no flashlights, and as said before, no idea of what was ahead. Surely we knew it was a long hike, but I think most of the students who came just thought it would be quick and easy, and were not really sure of the difficulty. We had a guide who's only use was that he had a small LED flashlight which was great for about 4 people in the group of 12, because they were the only ones who could keep up with the pace he was setting. Throughout the entire hike we were enticed by camels passing us on either side and their drivers simply asking: "Camel?...Camel?...Camel?...."

Not one of us got a camel I am proud to say, and after a few of us "eating it" pretty hard, we made it to The Stairs of Repentance. These 700 stairs were hand-laid by a monk in the 6th Century, and are quite a challenge to climb. Being young and limber, we passed many 60-somethings huffing and puffing their way up, but they kept on going. Kudos to them, I hope that when I am that age I will be able to walk in again! Either way, we finally made it to the top, and got to see the whole progression of the sun rising. I found a relatively isolated spot, but even there I was reminded constantly that this had turned into a tourist attraction. Almost everywhere people were speaking in loud voices, some were smoking, others jostling for the best photo-op...and I couldnt help but think that Mt. Sinai had lost some of its magic. I can't imagine what it would have been like to make this climb a few hundred years ago, with a spiritual intention, with silence, and then to watch the sun rise over the mountains. I think it would have been incredible, but those days are long gone. I did get some great pictures though, here is one of my favorites:

St. Catherine's Monastery was nice, but the touristy feel was pretty overwhelming. I did enjoy going into the church where many of the icons were (some of the oldest in the world), and silence was required. This gave some time for reflection, and I could finally think about the history of this place and all that had occurred.

...

I am now back in the hustle and bustle of Cairo, and trying to study in-between watching soccer matches (the Under 20 FIFA World Cup is here this year!). I'm definitely getting football fever, and bought my first football jersey yesterday (my hands want to type SOCCER so badly, but thats a habit any American abroad has to break). I am also attending the Egyptian National Team's game tomorrow as well, so hopefully they will kick some Paraguay ass!!!

H1N1 Virus

Well...
Let me just quote the email I just got:
"AUC will be suspending classes beginning Thursday, September 17 until Saturday, October 3. The decision follows a request by the Egyptian government that the university suspend its classes in line with government universities, which have suspended classes due to concerns relating to the H1N1 flu."

While there have not been any cases in the community, I guess there is pressure from the government to shut classes down. Not sure what I will do for this 2 and a half week break, but hopefully it will involve lots of traveling :P

The Khan, Classes, and Egyptian Hospitality

First of all, I want to apologize for the not updating my blog in a while. I have started my classes, and honestly, things have been pretty stressful. Lets start with a little pre-class activity, and then I will move into my classes, and wrap it up with one of the most amazing/touching stories you will ever read, so read on my friends!

The week or so before my classes started, I was very fortunate to know a few local Egyptians who I met when they came and studied abroad at my university, the University of Colorado. Ali, Mai, and Rana have been absolutely amazing hosts in their country, and have introduced me to their friends and country in such a special way that I will forever me indebted to them. Along the way I have met a few new American and Egyptian friends, including other students studying abroad, and "Cairenes" who I've met through the aforementioned Egyptians. One of the most notable activities I did before classes started was visit Khan al-Khalili bazar, a world renowned series of streets and alleyways that wind through Islamic Cairo. I went with Rana and her friends Nada and Hussein, and we were later joined by Mai and Ali.

The amazing Egyptians: (from right to left) Nada, Hussein, Rana, Ali, and Mai

It was such an amazing experience, and I feel that there in that market one can really find a true piece of Cairo (I found this to be ABSOLUTELY true last night, more to come!). You have an insane blending of tacky tourist nick-nack sellers, silver jewelers selling their wares, and hand-made goods, all right next to crammed-full Ahwas (cafes), mosques, and of course an enormous amount of people. Upon arriving at Khan al-Khalili, I was surprised to see that there were not actually all that many tourists. In fact, I felt like the only one there. Most of the people mulling about the streets are every-day Egyptians, simply looking for spices, nice cloth, or of course a good shisha (water pipe) and some shai (tea). The sellers know this all too well, and just like anywhere frequented by tourists and locals alike, there are always two different prices for everything. If you are as fortunate as I was, and are with locals or Arabs who speak Arabic, you will likely get great deals. If you are with a group of tourists, it is another story. Say you walk up to a stand selling tacky pyramids made from glass (why on God's green earth would anybody do this? I have no idea but they are everywhere, so somebody must be buying them!) and ask how much the merchant wants for a paper weight-sized pyramid. He might say: "Okay okay I make you good deal. Only 100 pounds, I love Obama, I love USA!". So the first thing that goes through your head is: "HOLY CRAP, 100 dollars NO WAY! Oh wait, its not dollars, its pounds... So actually, with an exchange rate of 5.5 Egyptian Pounds (LE) to every dollar, I am roughly paying $18 dollars." Not bad you think to yourself, and with a smug smile you hand over the money.

Congratulations, not only are you an idiot for buying a piece of glass shaped like a pyramid, but you also paid AT LEAST twice as much as you should have. Haggling is simply a part of every day life here in Egypt, from cab rides to groceries. Read on for my second experience at the Khan where I had my first buying experience!

Khan al-Khalili in all of its Ramadan glory

Let's take a break from shopping and talk about my classes. Simply put I am very excited about my classes this semester, and I am aware that Arabic will most likely thoroughly whoop my behind. The professors are stellar here at AUC, and I can't help but let the thought of post-graduate work here in Egypt run through my head... Below is a break down of each class:

Arabic: Since day one my professor has spoken only a handful of words in English, so en sha Allah (God Willing) my Arabic will be rockin' by the end of my year here.

Islamic Art and Architecture: This class (and all others but Arabic) is taught in English, and the professor is an Irishman who is very engaging. A few field trips will be taken as well so this one promises to be fun!

Art and Architecture of Ancient Egypt: This class is taught by the world famous Egyptologist Salima Ikram, who is really fun. I am the only boy in this class, and it will consist of a couple of papers and visiting lots of monuments in Egypt as well as multiple trips to the Egyptian Museum. Good stuff :)

The Foreign Correspondent: Covering Conflict in the Middle East: This promises to be one of my favorite classes, and is a graduate level class that is open to American students studying abroad at AUC. The professor is S. Abdullah Schleifer, a charismatic man and ex-bureau chief at the Cairo NBC office.

International Law: While quite possibly hard, this class is also looking really great mostly because of the professor. He was an American lawyer who has had experience as a federal prosecutor, and various other high up positions. He is passionate about his class and I can't wait to learn more.

Political Anthropology: I am also the only guy in this class... The professor seems pretty laid-back, but this one will be pretty reading intensive.

Now on the good stuff...

So last night I came home from school a little late due to some bus delays, and really just planned to bust my ass doing Arabic homework and not much else. Somehow whilst sitting at dinner I arranged with a couple of guys to go to Khan al-Khalili to go drink some tea and smoke shisha. After taking a taxi there (all four of us for 15 LE, $2.73.. I CAN'T get over the taxi prices!), we made our way to al-Fashawy, a famous ahwa in the heart of the Khan, frequented by locals and tourists alike. We were seated outside, and sat right next to a local who was by himself at the table. After a few minutes we all struck up conversation with him, and next thing we know, we were discussing politics, foreign policy, US agenda, religion, etc. This was totally unexpected, and it was really cool to hear from a local elder (Mohammed was probably around 60). Two and a half hours later we left Mohammed and al Fashawy in search of a kufiya (scarf/head covering) for myself. We wondered into the textile section of the bazar (Khan al-Khalili breaks down into sectors outside of the main part) and while speaking English, caught the attention of a couple of local Egyptians. After introducing myself to them and telling them where I was from, I asked them if they knew a good place to find a kufiya. They said yes and took us to a great place where I found a black and white one for 11 pounds. This was great, and because they were with us (speaking in Arabic to the seller) we got a great deal. They stayed with us in our wonderings, and then asked us if we wanted to see the section of the market that was devoted solely to the making and selling of shisha pipes and parts (for those of you who do not know, shisha is molasses covered tobacco usually sweet and fruity that is smoked through a water-filtration process that involves heating the tobacco with coals on top... It is also a nightly ritual for Egyptians). Wanting to see more of the Khan, I agreed, and the other guys somewhat reluctantly agreed as well, because lets face it, we were not sure if these guys wanted to scam us or rob us or something of the like. We followed them through a series of desolate alley ways that were for the most part empty, and I have to say that a few times I gave following them a second thought. But soon enough we popped out onto a main street; we had just taken a shortcut. This street was stunningly beautiful. It was in the heart of Islamic Cairo, and now I understand why this district is called this. There were ancient mosques that lined the street, and it really was a picturesque seen. As one of them (they were both named Ahmed) was a history major, we pretty much got a full historical tour of Islamic Cairo, and even saw the houses where Nagib Mahfouz lived. They also took us to the best fo'ul (beans and oil... LOTS OF OIL) place I have had yet, and we all sat together on the street eating absolutely fabulous street food.

Some of the guys from AUC with Ahmed and Ahmed on either side of myself

Somehow along the way back they also got us into a magnificent mosque that was being renovated and was closed to the public... Below are some pictures...

It was such a magical night for so many reasons. But above all else, it was amazing to receive such an amazing outpouring of hospitality from two complete strangers. I maintain that this would NEVER happen in the US, where we seem pretty caught up in our own lives and our own doings. "The Ahmeds" to me represented Egyptian society at its best: generosity, kindness, open-mindedness, faith, and friendship.

My apologies regarding the length of this posting, I suppose I should update more often instead of writing essays for you to read...

With Love

Eric

Settling In

Well, I am officially not in Texas anymore! It has been dawning on me these days that this is really happening, and I think that I am beginning to get used to the extreme differences between Egypt and America. I am no longer jet lagged, and have even been doing orientation at my University here, the American University of Cairo (AUC). I have been getting up every morning at 6:30 to take a large bus that leaves from my dorms on Zamalek, a large island on the Nile, to New Cairo, which is 45 minutes away, in the desert, and home to our brand-spanking-new campus (pictures below!). I will be doing this every day this semester as well, since my Arabic class is at 8:30 AM every day! It is an opportunity to catch a quick nap in, and possibly if needed, some studying as I see it. This week thus far has really been an eye opening experience. I have encountered some incredibly frustrating things here in Egypt, and I have also had one of the single most exhilarating experiences in my life as well. So lets start with the bad, so I can end on a good note shall we?

Learning the Egyptian way of business:

The hardest thing this trip thus far has not been the heat in Egypt, the cultural differences, nor the terrible pollution. It has been experiencing the differences in how Egyptian society runs versus how everything is run in America. Orientation at my school was a perfect example of this. The first day of orientation was basically a treasure hunt, but instead of finding fun things like Easter Eggs and chocolates, we were searching for visa papers, offices with suffixes that were completely unknown to us, and mostly being sent from one office to another. The system that they have here seems to be horribly inefficient, from banks to AUC's orientation. On top of all this, it is Ramadan, in which Muslims fast all day, and the majority of banks and shops close around 2 pm and re-open late at night. My friend from CU who is here studying abroad as well summarized Ramadan like this: "It's like Christmas, but it sucks..."

It seems that is might be the view of most of the study abroad students, but I look at it as an opportunity to experience something new, and also to observe a type of mainstream spiritual devotion simply not present in the United States. I am enjoying being the outsider for once in my life, being the minority, and learning all the things that scream to the locals "THIS GUY IS AN AMERICAN!"

So in summary of the bad, maybe it isn't actually so bad. It is just adjusting to a completely different society, where I'm realizing that if you come to the table with too may assumptions or pre-conceptions (the American way I might add), then you are really in for a hard time.

Alright, so now on to exciting news!

The new campus that AUC has just completed (mostly) is absolutely stunning. I really can't describe it but I'll try. I think of it as Egyptian-Roman-modern-Islamic-esque architecture. In America, we have a campus in the city, or even in the country. If a building becomes old, it is demolished, and usually replaced with a nicer one with improvements. Well at the American University of Cairo, they completely move out into the desert, and....POOF! After a few years appears a multi-million dollar campus that is so ground-breaking and beautiful that a kid from America is spending far too much time talking about it on his blog... Enough said, I'll just let you see some pictures for yourself :)

Now on the coolest thing I have done thus far this trip. It was taking a taxi from my dorm to another neighborhood in Cairo, about 40 minutes away (due to traffic). It was the most exhilarating experience of maybe my whole life. Words cannot even describe what these taxi drivers do, I think only black magic or something can. I have never seen a little soviet-era car fit into so many tight spots so effectively and quickly. The cab driver was very nice, and we spoke in what little Arabic I knew and English he knew. For those of you who don't know, Cairo has some of the worst traffic in the world, and understandably so, the cities population is nearly 8 million people! So as I said in my other post, there is an organized chaos to the madness, and I think that I truly enjoy being part of it, especially in a cab :)

So there you have it! I start classes this coming Sunday, and have a little bit of spare time these next few days with which I'm not sure what I will do. A trip to Alexandria perhaps...? Who knows! Thats the beauty of this whole experience.

Stay tuned for a live, in-taxi experience filmed by myself which I plan to film and post next blog!